A Technically Demanding Virgin Peak in the Nepalese Khumbu. Khangri Shar, a 6,792-meter (22,283-foot) peak in Nepal’s Khumbu region, stands as a significant yet unclaimed summit within the illustrious company of Himalayan giants. Unlike its well-established neighbour, Pumori, Khangri Shar remained relatively obscure to the mountaineering community until its official opening for ascents by the Nepalese government in the fall of 2002. This delayed recognition adds a unique historical layer to the peak’s current allure.
Khangri Shar embraces both the Changri Glacier and the Khangri Glacier, with the latter sometimes appearing as “Changri Glacier” on older maps. Interestingly, local usage of “Changri Shar” suggests a potentially more traditional name for the peak, hinting at a deeper cultural connection.
In the year 2003, they witnessed a noteworthy attempt to conquer Khangri Shar. A Japanese Alpine Club expedition, led by Kanenori Emoto, embarked on a pioneering climb via the “JAC Glacier,” named after their organisation. Their determination was evident as they established fixed ropes and ascended to a remarkable height of approximately 6,000 meters. However, the unforgiving terrain, characterised by crevasses and unforeseen challenges, forced them to make the prudent decision to abandon their summit push. This attempt serves as a strong testament to the mountain’s technical complexity and the immense respect it demands from climbers.
Khangri Shar’s ascent continues to be a coveted objective for seasoned mountaineers. Its remote location, positioned away from the more established climbing routes, presents a distinct challenge. The intricate technical terrain necessitates mastery of ice and rock techniques, beckoning experienced climbers seeking to forge new routes and contribute to the historical tapestry of Himalayan exploration. As with any high-altitude climb, meticulous planning, rigorous training, and a profound respect for the mountain’s inherent dangers are paramount for a successful summit push. Khangri Shar stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of adventure and the allure of unconquered peaks that continue to inspire and challenge even the most accomplished climbers.
The Khangri Shar base camp is located on a plateau near a small glacial lake at the foot of Pumori. This specific location was chosen by the climbers during their expedition.
Establishing a base camp on a plateau near a glacial lake can have several advantages for mountaineering expeditions. It provides a relatively flat and stable area to set up tents and equipment, and the presence of a glacial lake may serve as a water source for the climbers, which is crucial for their hydration and cooking needs.
We are pleased to provide a comprehensive base camp for the Khangri Shar expeditions. Our primary objective is to ensure the comfort and safety of all expedition members throughout their stay. Below are the details of the base camp facilities and services:
The next few days are crucial for your acclimatisation at Base Camp. This is where your body adjusts to the high altitude in preparation for the challenging summit push. Here’s a breakdown of the key activities:
Rotation Climbs to Camp II (6479m): These practice climbs will improve your technical climbing skills and give you valuable experience on the mountain.
Glacier Travel Techniques Training: Learn all about safe ascending and descending techniques, rope fixing, and essential protocols for navigating glaciers.
Refresher Sessions on Abseiling and Belaying: Brush up on these essential climbing manoeuvres for a safe and efficient ascent.
Acclimatisation Hikes: Short hikes in the surrounding areas will further improve your physical conditioning for the summit climb.
Today, you’ll be trekking to Camp 1, located at approximately 6000 meters. The route follows the tongue of the JAC Glacier and then ascends a lateral moraine slope leading to a rock wall. Expect to spend 4-5 hours on this trek. You’ll spend the night in high-altitude tents, enjoying delicious meals prepared by the expedition cooks.
After a night at Camp 1, it’s on to Camp 2! This section takes about 4-5 hours and reaches a height of 6479 meters in a col. Be prepared for potentially strong winds at Camp 2.
Summit day! An early start begins with breakfast around 4:00 AM. The climb from Camp 2 to the summit is generally considered less technical than the previous sections. The initial ascent might be cold, but things will warm up as you traverse the glacier and the unique ridge. The summit push takes about 4-5 hours, and the reward is a breathtaking panorama of the Himalayas, including Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Cholatse, and many more. Celebrate your achievement at the summit before descending back to Camp 1 for the night.
Today, you’ll make a safe descent back to Base Camp. The expedition follows responsible travel practices, so you’ll help clean up any waste around the camp before departing for the trek back to Lukla.
The best time to climb Khangri Shar is typically during the spring and autumn seasons. These months generally provide more stable weather conditions and clearer skies, making the climbing experience safer and more enjoyable.
This is considered the primary climbing season for Khangri Shar. During spring, the weather is relatively stable, with warmer temperatures, and there is less precipitation. The climbing conditions are generally better, and the visibility is excellent for enjoying the surrounding scenery.
Autumn is the second most popular time to climb Khangri Shar. Similar to spring, the weather is stable, and the skies are clear. The temperatures are colder than in spring, but the views are breathtaking with the autumn foliage.
During these peak climbing seasons, various expedition teams and climbers head to the region, and support services are more readily available. However, it’s always essential to check for the latest weather and route conditions before planning your climb, as the weather in the mountains can be unpredictable.
If you are a seasoned climber seeking an unparalleled challenge in the Himalayas, Adventure 14 Summit’s Kangri Shar expedition is the perfect opportunity to achieve your mountaineering goals. For a detailed itinerary, expedition dates, and logistical information, please visit our website or contact us directly. Let us help you turn the dream of conquering Kangri Shar into a reality.
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👉: Upon landing at Tribhuvan International Airport, proceed to the immigration office to obtain your Nepal entry visa. Make sure all visa requirements are prepared in advance.
Our team will meet you outside the terminal and transfer you to your hotel. You’ll receive a brief briefing about the next day’s plan and be asked to submit any necessary documents to our staff.
👉: Finalise permits and logistics, complete document checks, and conduct a full gear inspection. Attend a detailed briefing on the expedition itinerary, stage durations, accommodation, base camp facilities, and key climb details.
👉: We take an early morning flight to Lukla, where all Everest region treks begin. Once you arrive in Lukla, have breakfast at the lodge and prepare your luggage for the porters. The trek to Phakding begins with some ups and downs, along with numerous prayer rocks (Mani, in the local language). After settling into your lodge in Phakding, you can take a short walk to explore the village.
👉: Our trail passes through a pine forest as we continue walking north along the Benkar Valley. We cross the Dudh Koshi River and pass through the villages of Chumoa and Monjo before reaching the entrance of Everest National Park. After crossing a suspension bridge, we pass through Jorsale village and walk alongside the Dudh Koshi and Bhote Koshi rivers. Finally, we ascend a steep trail to reach Namche Bazaar, the largest town in the Everest region.
👉: We can explore Namche Bazaar, the main town of the Everest or Khumbu region. A hike to the Everest View Hotel offers breathtaking views of the sunrise over the Himalayas, including Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kongde, and more. For those interested in a day hike, we can trek to Khumjung village. Additionally, we will visit the Hillary School and a monastery that houses a yeti’s scalp.
👉: The trek to Phunki Thanga is relatively easy. From there, we ascend towards Tengboche village, home to the renowned Tengboche Monastery, the largest monastery in the Everest region. The monastery offers breathtaking panoramic views of the Himalayas, including Mt. Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Thamserku. If we arrive by 3 o’clock we can witness a Buddhist religious ceremony.
👉: Our trail descends through lush forests of birch and rhododendron trees. From Tengboche, we walk downhill to Debuche and cross the Imja River to reach Pangboche. We take the upper Pangboche trail, admiring the Himalayan vista and the Pangboche Monastery. We continue our walk to the Imja Valley and Lobuche River before ascending to Dingboche.
👉: Spend a day in Dingboche to allow your body to adjust to the higher altitude. This rest day is essential for acclimatisation, helping to prevent altitude sickness and ensuring you’re well-prepared for the more challenging hikes ahead. In the afternoon, consider a short hike to a higher elevation, such as Nangkartsang Peak (5,083 m), to further support the acclimatisation process and take in breathtaking mountain views. Afterwards, return to Dingboche for a restful night, ready and recharged for the next stage of your trek.
👉: The trail from Dingboche (4,410m) to Lobuche (4,940m) takes you through alpine meadows and rocky terrain, offering stunning views of peaks like Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Everest, and Island Peak. The route begins with a steady ascent through open terrain and switchbacks, with rocky and dry conditions and sparse vegetation. After completing the steep section, you’ll encounter the memorial stupas dedicated to climbers and trekkers who have lost their lives on Everest over the years. As you near Lobuche, the trail becomes less steep, leading to breathtaking views of the Khumbu Glacier and the surrounding snow-capped mountains.
👉: The trek from Lobuche to Gorakshep is a rewarding hike through stunning high-altitude terrain. The trail gradually ascends past rocky landscapes and glacial moraine, offering breathtaking views of towering peaks like Pumori and Nuptse. Gorakshep (5,180 m/16,995 ft) serves as the final stop before Everest Base Camp, where you can rest and prepare for the next day’s adventure.
👉: The expedition progresses towards Khangri Shar Base Camp. Situated on a plateau near a glacial lake at the foot west of Pumori Base Camp, this high-altitude camp offers unrivalled panoramic vistas of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, and the surrounding Himalayan giants.
👉: The following days are critical for acclimatisation at Base Camp. This period allows your body to adjust to the high altitude in preparation for the summit push. Key activities include:
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Rotation Climbs to Camp II (6479m): These progressive ascents enhance technical climbing skills and provide valuable experience on the mountain.
Glacier Travel Techniques Training: This comprehensive training covers rope fixing, safe ascending and descending techniques, and essential glacier travel protocols.
Refresher Sessions on Abseiling and Belaying: These sessions ensure proficiency in essential climbing manoeuvres for a safe and efficient ascent.
Acclimatisation Hikes: Short hikes in the surrounding areas further enhance physical conditioning for the summit climb.
👉: Following successful acclimatisation and training, the expedition progresses to Camp 1. The route traverses the tongue of the JAC Glacier, followed by an ascent up a lateral moraine slope leading to a rock wall. Camp 1 is established on a glacier plateau at approximately 6000 meters. You’ll spend the night in high-altitude tents enjoying pre-prepared meals by the expedition cooks.
👉: After spending the night at Camp 1, climbers make a gradual ascent to Camp 2, located at 6,497 meters in a col. This climb takes about 4–5 hours.
👉: Summit day arrives! An early start begins with breakfast around 4:00 AM. The climb from Camp 2 to the summit of Khangri Shar (6792m) is generally considered less technically challenging than the preceding sections. While initial sections might be cold, the ascent up the glacier and a unique ridge will gradually warm you. The summit push takes approximately 4-5 hours, and the reward is a breathtaking panorama encompassing Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Cholatse, and many more Himalayan giants. Savour the moment at the summit before descending back to Camp 1 for the night.
👉: A safe descent is made back to Base Camp today. Our commitment to responsible travel principles includes cleaning all waste around the camp before departing for the trek back to Lukla.
👉: Descending from Kangri Shar Base Camp, you’ll pass Gorakshep and Lobuche before reaching Pherutse. Enjoy breathtaking mountain views and experience the warm Sherpa culture along the way.
👉: We start the day with an early morning hike to Kala Patthar, where we are treated to panoramic views of Mount Everest and the surrounding peaks as the sun rises. After enjoying the stunning scenery, we descend back to Gorak Shep and continue our trek down to Pheriche. The descent offers a refreshing change of pace, as we leave the high-altitude landscapes behind and make our way to Pheriche for a well-earned rest.
👉: Today, we trek from Pheriche to Namche Bazaar, descending through the beautiful valleys of the Khumbu region. The trail offers stunning views of Ama Dablam and other peaks as we pass through the villages of Pangboche and Tengboche. As we descend further, we cross suspension bridges and lush forests, eventually reaching Namche Bazaar, where we can relax and reflect on the journey through the Everest region.
👉: Fly to Munthali with a 20-minute scenic flight, offering stunning aerial views of the landscape. Upon arrival, enjoy a short drive back to Kathmandu, where you can relax and unwind after your trek, reflecting on the incredible adventure in the Himalayas. The drive back provides a final opportunity to appreciate the beauty of the region before concluding your journey.
👉: Generally, you need 3 hours before your flight time to get to the Kathmandu airport in Nepal. So you transfer to the Kathmandu airport for your flight to your destination.
Start | Finish | Availability | Price | |
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Wednesday October 15, 2025 | Trip Status available | Starting from $ 5500 | Book Now |
Khangri Shar's elevation is approximately 6,792 meters (22,277 feet) above sea level.
Khangri Shar is situated in the Khumbu region of the Nepalese Himalayas, near the Everest region.
Information about the technical difficulties involved in climbing the peak and the required mountaineering skills.
An update on the current climbing status of the mountain, including any previous successful attempts or whether it remains unclimbed.
Information about the necessary permits and paperwork for climbing in the area, as well as logistics such as accommodation, transportation, and support staff.
A comprehensive list of essential gear and equipment required for the expedition, including climbing gear, clothing, and personal items.
Guidance on the required level of physical fitness, previous climbing experience, and training needed to participate in the expedition.
Information about the safety protocols, emergency procedures, and medical support available during the expedition.
Details about responsible climbing practices, cultural sensitivities, and environmental conservation efforts during the expedition.
All Inclusive Price.
"𝗜𝗳 𝘆𝗼𝘂'𝗿𝗲 𝗶𝗻𝘁𝗲𝗿𝗲𝘀𝘁𝗲𝗱 𝗶𝗻 𝗱𝗶𝘀𝗰𝘂𝘀𝘀𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝘆𝗼𝘂𝗿 𝗻𝗲𝘅𝘁 𝗮𝗱𝘃𝗲𝗻𝘁𝘂𝗿𝗲, 𝗻𝗲𝗲𝗱 𝗮𝘀𝘀𝗶𝘀𝘁𝗮𝗻𝗰𝗲 𝘄𝗶𝘁𝗵 𝗽𝗹𝗮𝗻𝗻𝗶𝗻𝗴, 𝗼𝗿 𝘀𝗶𝗺𝗽𝗹𝘆 𝘄𝗮𝗻𝘁 𝘁𝗼 𝗵𝗮𝘃𝗲 𝗮 𝗰𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝗮𝗯𝗼𝘂𝘁 𝗮𝗻𝘆 𝘁𝗼𝗽𝗶𝗰, 𝗳𝗲𝗲𝗹 𝗳𝗿𝗲𝗲 𝘁𝗼 𝗮𝘀𝗸 𝗺𝗲 𝗮𝗻𝘆𝘁𝗵𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗵𝗲𝗿𝗲. 𝗜'𝗺 𝗺𝗼𝗿𝗲 𝘁𝗵𝗮𝗻 𝗵𝗮𝗽𝗽𝘆 𝘁𝗼 𝗵𝗲𝗹𝗽 𝗶𝗻 𝗮𝗻𝘆 𝘄𝗮𝘆 𝗜 𝗰𝗮𝗻!"
"𝗪𝗲 𝗵𝗮𝘃𝗲 𝗮 𝘁𝗲𝗮𝗺 𝗼𝗳 𝗲𝘅𝗽𝗲𝗿𝗶𝗲𝗻𝗰𝗲𝗱 𝘁𝗿𝗮𝘃𝗲𝗹 𝗲𝘅𝗽𝗲𝗿𝘁𝘀 𝘄𝗵𝗼 𝗵𝗮𝘃𝗲 𝗯𝗲𝗲𝗻 𝘄𝗼𝗿𝗸𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗶𝗻 𝘁𝗵𝗶𝘀 𝗶𝗻𝗱𝘂𝘀𝘁𝗿𝘆 𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝗼𝘃𝗲𝗿 𝗮 𝗱𝗲𝗰𝗮𝗱𝗲. 𝗙𝗲𝗲𝗹 𝗳𝗿𝗲𝗲 𝘁𝗼 𝗰𝗼𝗻𝘀𝘂𝗹𝘁 𝘄𝗶𝘁𝗵 𝘂𝘀 𝘁𝗼 𝗴𝗲𝘁 𝘀𝘁𝗮𝗿𝘁𝗲𝗱 𝗼𝗻 𝘆𝗼𝘂𝗿 𝗻𝗲𝘅𝘁 𝗮𝗱𝘃𝗲𝗻𝘁𝘂𝗿𝗲!"
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