A Technically Demanding Virgin Peak in the Nepalese Khumbu. Khangri Shar, a 6,792-meter (22,283-foot) peak in Nepal’s Khumbu region, stands as a significant yet unclaimed summit within the illustrious company of Himalayan giants. Unlike its well-established neighbor Pumori, Khangri Shar remained relatively obscure to the mountaineering community until its official opening for ascents by the Nepalese government in the fall of 2002. This delayed recognition adds a unique historical layer to the peak’s current allure.
Khangri Shar embraces both the Changri Glacier and the Khangri Glacier, with the latter sometimes appearing as “Changri Glacier” on older maps. Interestingly, local usage of “Changri Shar” suggests a potentially more traditional name for the peak, hinting at a deeper cultural connection.
In the year 2003, they witnessed a noteworthy attempt to conquer Khangri Shar. A Japanese Alpine Club expedition, led by Kanenori Emoto, embarked on a pioneering climb via the “JAC Glacier,” named after their organization. Their determination was evident as they established fixed ropes and ascended to a remarkable height of approximately 6,000 meters. However, the unforgiving terrain, characterized by crevasses and unforeseen challenges, forced them to make the prudent decision to abandon their summit push. This attempt serves as a strong testament to the mountain’s technical complexity and the immense respect it demands from climbers.
Khangri Shar’s ascent continues to be a coveted objective for seasoned mountaineers. Its remote location, positioned away from the more established climbing routes, presents a distinct challenge. The intricate technical terrain necessitates mastery of ice and rock techniques, beckoning experienced climbers seeking to forge new routes and contribute to the historical tapestry of Himalayan exploration. As with any high-altitude climb, meticulous planning, rigorous training, and a profound respect for the mountain’s inherent dangers are paramount for a successful summit push. Khangri Shar stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of adventure and the allure of unconquered peaks that continue to inspire and challenge even the most accomplished climbers.
The Khangri Shar base camp is located on a plateau near a small glacial lake at the foot of Pumori. This specific location was chosen by the climbers during their expedition.
Establishing a base camp on a plateau near a glacial lake can have several advantages for mountaineering expeditions. It provides a relatively flat and stable area to set up tents and equipment, and the presence of a glacial lake may serve as a water source for the climbers, which is crucial for their hydration and cooking needs.
We are pleased to provide a comprehensive base camp for the Khangri shar expeditions. Our primary objective is to ensure the comfort and safety of all expedition members throughout their stay. Below are the details of the base camp facilities and services:
The next few days are crucial for your acclimatization at Base Camp. This is where your body adjusts to the high altitude in preparation for the challenging summit push. Here’s a breakdown of the key activities:
Rotation Climbs to Camp II (6479m): These practice climbs will improve your technical climbing skills and give you valuable experience on the mountain.
Glacier Travel Techniques Training: Learn all about safe ascending and descending techniques, rope fixing, and essential protocols for navigating glaciers.
Refresher Sessions on Abseiling and Belaying: Brush up on these essential climbing maneuvers for a safe and efficient ascent.
Acclimatization Hikes: Short hikes in the surrounding areas will further improve your physical conditioning for the summit climb.
Today, you’ll be trekking to Camp 1, located at approximately 6000 meters. The route follows the tongue of the JAC Glacier and then ascends a lateral moraine slope leading to a rock wall. Expect to spend 4-5 hours on this trek. You’ll spend the night in high-altitude tents, enjoying delicious meals prepared by the expedition cooks.
After a night at Camp 1, it’s on to Camp 2! This section takes about 4-5 hours and reaches a height of 6479 meters in a col. Be prepared for potentially strong winds at Camp 2.
Summit day! An early start begins with breakfast around 4:00 AM. The climb from Camp 2 to the summit is generally considered less technical than the previous sections. The initial ascent might be cold, but things will warm up as you traverse the glacier and unique ridge. The summit push takes about 4-5 hours, and the reward is a breathtaking panorama of the Himalayas, including Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Cholatse, and many more. Celebrate your achievement at the summit before descending back to Camp 1 for the night.
Today, you’ll make a safe descent back to Base Camp. The expedition follows responsible travel practices, so you’ll help clean up any waste around the camp before departing for the trek back to Lukla.
the best time to climb Khangri Shar is typically during the spring and autumn seasons. These months generally provide more stable weather conditions and clearer skies, making the climbing experience safer and more enjoyable.
This is considered the primary climbing season for Khangri Shar. During spring, the weather is relatively stable, with warmer temperatures, and there is less precipitation. The climbing conditions are generally better, and the visibility is excellent for enjoying the surrounding scenery.
Autumn is the second most popular time to climb Khangri Shar. Similar to spring, the weather is stable, and the skies are clear. The temperatures are colder than in spring, but the views are breathtaking with the autumn foliage.
During these peak climbing seasons, various expedition teams and climbers head to the region, and support services are more readily available. However, it’s always essential to check for the latest weather and route conditions before planning your climb, as the weather in the mountains can be unpredictable.
If you are a seasoned climber seeking an unparalleled challenge in the Himalayas, Adventure 14 Summit’s Kangri Shar expedition is the perfect opportunity to achieve your mountaineering goals. For a detailed itinerary, expedition dates, and logistical information, please visit our website or contact us directly. Let us help you turn the dream of conquering Kangri Shar into a reality.
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Visa Acquisition:ย Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, head to the immigration office to obtain your Nepal entry visa. Please ensure you have completed any necessary visa formalities before your trip.
Welcome and Logistics:ย Our representatives will be waiting for you outside the terminal hall, ready to whisk you away to your hotel. Theyโll also provide a briefing about your itinerary for the next day and collect any documents required by our office.
Morning:ย Complete expedition formalities including permit acquisition, document review, and logistical arrangements.
Afternoon:ย Conduct a gear check to ensure all climbers have appropriate equipment. Followed by a comprehensive briefing covering the expedition itinerary, stage durations, lodging details, base camp facilities, and other relevant aspects of the climb.
Early Morning Departure:ย The day commences with an exhilarating flight to Lukla (3,860 m/12,667 ft), the gateway to the Everest Base Camp trek.
Khumbu Entry Permit Processing:ย Upon arrival in Lukla, our team will efficiently facilitate the acquisition of the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Entry Permit, ensuring seamless entry into the Khumbu region. This permit directly contributes to the sustainable development of the local communities.
Breakfast and Porter Luggage Transfer:ย After a nourishing breakfast at a local lodge, our guides will assist with transferring your luggage to the porters for efficient transportation.
Lukla to Phakding Trek (3-4 hours):ย The initial leg of the trek offers a picturesque route with gradual ascents and descents. This gentle climb allows for acclimatization to the higher altitude. Be captivated by the numerous Mani stones (prayer rocks) lining the path, each imbued with cultural significance.
Accommodation and Village Exploration:ย Our destination for the night is Phakding, a charming village nestled amidst the Himalayas. After settling into our comfortable accommodations, enjoy a leisurely afternoon exploring the village and immersing yourself in the unique local atmosphere.
Coniferous Trail:ย The day commences with a trek through a scenic path enveloped by a fragrant coniferous forest, providing a refreshing introduction to the dayโs adventure.
Benkar Valley Traverse:ย Weโll continue our northerly ascent traversing the majestic Benkar Valley, offering opportunities to observe the diverse flora and fauna of the region.
Dudh Koshi River Crossing:ย A strategically positioned bridge facilitates our passage over the formidable Dudh Koshi River. En route, weโll traverse the charming villages of Chumoa and Monjo.
Everest National Park Entry:ย Reaching the designated entrance of Everest National Park signifies a significant milestone on our expedition. This serves as a timely reminder of the immense importance of conservation efforts in this remarkable ecological zone.
Jorsale and River Confluence:ย Following an exhilarating suspension bridge crossing, our path continues alongside the confluence of the Dudh Koshi and Bhote Koshi rivers, allowing us to appreciate the vibrant scenery near Jorsale village.
Ascent to Namche Bazaar:ย The final leg of the trek involves a more pronounced ascent, culminating in our arrival at Namche Bazaar. This impressive town, often referred to as the โGateway to Everest,โ serves as our base for acclimatization over the following days.
Namche Bazaar Exploration:ย Immerse yourself in the vibrant atmosphere of Namche Bazaar, often dubbed the โGateway to Everest.โ Explore the bustling shops, peruse local handicrafts, and soak up the unique culture of the Khumbu region.
Sunrise Spectacle at Everest View Hotel (Optional):ย For the early risers, an optional hike to the Everest View Hotel offers a breathtaking panorama of the Himalayas bathed in the golden hues of sunrise. Witness the majestic peaks of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, and Kongde emerge from the darkness in an awe-inspiring display.
Khumjung Village Day Hike (Optional):ย Feeling adventurous? Embark on a day hike to the charming village of Khumjung. This picturesque settlement offers stunning mountain views and a glimpse into the traditional Sherpa way of life.
Hillary School and Monastery Visit:ย Pay your respects at the renowned Hillary School, established by Sir Edmund Hillary to empower the local community. You can also visit a nearby monastery, rumored to house a fascinating artifact โ a yeti scalp (though its authenticity remains a topic of debate).
Gentle Start to Phunki:ย The initial portion of the trek unfolds on a relatively easy path, offering a relaxing start to the dayโs adventure. Take in the surrounding landscape and enjoy a gradual ascent towards our destination.
Upward Journey to Tengboche:ย As we approach Phunki, the trail transforms into a more scenic climb, steadily leading us towards Tengboche village. Keep your eyes peeled for captivating Himalayan vistas along the way.
Tengboche Monastery โ A Spiritual Sanctuary:ย Our destination for the day is Tengboche Monastery, the crown jewel of the Everest region. This majestic monastery boasts breathtaking panoramic views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Thamserku, creating a truly unforgettable spectacle.
Witnessing a Buddhist Ceremony (Optional):ย If we arrive before 3 PM, we have the unique opportunity to witness a traditional Buddhist religious ceremony within the monastery walls. Immerse yourself in the spiritual ambiance and experience the vibrant culture of the Himalayas firsthand.
Lush forest:ย Descend through a verdant forest path, like the initial section of the Tengboche Monastery trek. Imagine sunlight dappling through the leaves and the earthy scent of the forest filling the air.
Imja River Crossing:ย Traverse the sturdy bridge over the Imja River, relishing the crisp mountain air and the soothing sound of rushing water below, then continue the ascent to Pangboche village. This charming settlement, adorned with traditional houses and hospitable locals, awaits your arrival.
Dayโs resting point:ย Continue trekking to Dingboche, your destiny. This quaint village boasts stunning views of the surrounding peaks, including Ama Dablam and Thamserku. Settle into your comfortable teahouse or lodge in Dingboche in the evening. Relax and soak in the tranquility of the Himalayas while remembering to stay hydrated and enjoy nutritious food to aid acclimatization.
Hike to Nagarjun Hill:ย Embark on a scenic climb to Nagarjun Hill, offering breathtaking close-up views of Ama Dablam, Island Peak, and other majestic giants.
Challenge Chhukung Ri:ย For the more adventurous trekkers, Chhukung Ri beckons. This higher viewpoint provides even more stunning panoramas of the surrounding peaks. No matter which hikes you choose, prepare to be awestruck by the beauty of the Himalayas.
Evening:ย After your invigorating hike, return to Dingboche for a comfortable overnight stay. Savor the tranquility of the village and enjoy a well-deserved rest before your next adventure.
Gradually Climb to Dungla:ย This leg of your trek from Dingboche to Lobuche will test your endurance as the altitude increases. While the overall ascent is gradual, youโll be hiking nearly three miles above sea level, so expect to feel the effects. The path includes a particularly demanding section as you climb uphill to reach Dungla, a high point marked by memorial stupas honoring climbers and trekkers who lost their lives on Everest.
A Rugged Reward:ย The trail from Dingboche to Lobuche traverses a challenging yet rewarding landscape. As you ascend to Dungla, a high point marked by memorial stupas, prepare for rugged mountain terrain. This challenging section offers a unique perspective of the surrounding peaks, including Lobuche itself, Pumori, and Nuptse. Your destination, Lobuche, is a small settlement nestled amidst these giants, providing a breathtaking high-altitude haven.
Day 10:ย Trek to Gorak Shep (5170 m16961 ft), visit Everest Base Camp (5364 m/17598 ft): 6-7 hours of walking.
Glacier Hike to Gorak Shep:ย The trail to Gorak Shep is not overly challenging, but it does involve traversing a glacier path. This means youโll encounter uneven terrain and potentially loose gravel, so sturdy hiking boots are essential.
Witnessing the Khumbu Glacierโs Wonders:ย As you ascend towards Gorak Shep, keep an eye out for the fascinating meltwater patterns on the Khumbu Glacier. You might also spot the unique, gently rounded ice towers that grace the upper reaches of the glacier, a testament to the power of nature.
Everest Base Camp โ Awe-Inspiring Surroundings:ย Reaching Everest Base Camp is a highlight for many trekkers. Here, youโll be surrounded by the majestic peaks of Nuptse, Khumbuste, and Pumori. Take a moment to soak in the breathtaking panorama and the sheer scale of the worldโs tallest mountain.
Overnight at Gorak Shep:ย After basking in the beauty of Everest Base Camp, youโll retrace your steps and return to Gorak Shep, where youโll spend the night. This high-altitude settlement offers a unique opportunity to experience the tranquility of the Himalayas
The expedition progresses towards Khangri Shar Base Camp. Situated on a plateau near a glacial lake at the foot west of Pumori Base Camp, this high-altitude camp offers unrivaled panoramic vistas of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, and the surrounding Himalayan giants.
The following days are critical for acclimatization at Base Camp. This period allows your body to adjust to the high altitude in preparation for the summit push. Key activities include:
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ย Rotation Climbs to Camp II (6479m): These progressive ascents enhance technical climbing skills and provide valuable experience on the mountain.
Glacier Travel Techniques Training: This comprehensive training covers rope fixing, safe ascending and descending techniques, and essential glacier travel protocols.
Refresher Sessions on Abseiling and Belaying: These sessions ensure proficiency in essential climbing maneuvers for a safe and efficient ascent.
Acclimatization Hikes: Short hikes in the surrounding areas further enhance physical conditioning for the summit climb.
Following successful acclimatization and training, the expedition progresses to Camp 1. The route traverses the tongue of the JAC Glacier, followed by an ascent up a lateral moraine slope leading to a rock wall. Camp 1 is established on a glacier plateau at approximately 6000 meters. You’ll spend the night in high-altitude tents enjoying pre-prepared meals by the expedition cooks.
After a night at Camp 1, climbers will gradually ascend towards Camp 2, situated at 6497 meters in a col. This leg of the climb takes approximately 4-5 hours. Be prepared for potentially windy conditions at Camp 2.
Summit day arrives! An early start begins with breakfast around 4:00 AM. The climb from Camp 2 to the summit of Khangri Shar (6792m) is generally considered less technically challenging than the preceding sections. While initial sections might be cold, the ascent up the glacier and a unique ridge will gradually warm you. The summit push takes approximately 4-5 hours, and the reward is a breathtaking panorama encompassing Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Cholatse, and many more Himalayan giants. Savor the moment at the summit before descending back to Camp 1 for the night.
A safe descent is made back to Base Camp today. Our commitment to responsible travel principles includes cleaning all waste around the camp before departing for the trek back to Lukla.
Trek Back to Pheriche: Enjoy a scenic trek back to Pheriche, allowing you to soak in the Himalayan landscapes one last time.
Helicopter Return to Lukla (Additional Cost): For those with a tight schedule, a helicopter flight can be arranged for a swifter return to Lukla.
Descent from pheruche:ย Start your descent from pheruche, immersing yourself in the morning calmness and stunning vistas, trekking through peaceful forests and gradual inclines toward Deboche, pausing intermittently to appreciate the surrounding scenery and capturing lasting memories.
Tranquil Trails:ย Continue your trek, descending deeper into verdant foliage and picturesque paths, passing by the charming village of Pangboche, celebrated for its cultural heritage and typical architectural style, before making your way down to Phunki Thenga, a perfect spot to rest and replenish with a quick snack or refreshing beverages.
At to dayโs destination:ย Resume your downward journey from Phunki Thenga, tracing the meandering path along the Dudh Koshi River, navigating suspension bridges and rocky terrain as you draw nearer to Namche Bazaar, where youโll arrive by late afternoon, affording you plenty of time to delve into the lively market scene and relax at your lodging.
Downward Journey:ย The trail unfolds primarily as a downhill trek, offering a welcome change in pace after the challenging ascents of the past days. Let your legs relax and savor the scenic beauty of the Khumbu Valley.
Following the Dudh Koshi:ย Our path follows alongside the Dudh Koshi River, a constant companion throughout our journey. The turquoise waters and the dramatic surrounding landscape create a picturesque backdrop for our final leg.
Bridging the Way:ย The route incorporates several suspension bridges, offering thrilling crossings and stunning panoramas of the valley below.
Monasteries and Villages:ย Keep an eye out for the charming monasteries and villages dotting the landscape. These cultural gems provide a glimpse into the unique way of life of the Khumbu people.
Reaching Lukla:ย Finally, after a memorable trek, weโll arrive back in Lukla, the bustling gateway town. This signifies the official conclusion of our adventure in the Himalayas.
Early Bird Flight:ย Catch an early morning flight from Lukla, bidding farewell to the breathtaking mountain scenery for now. The scenic 35-minute flight offers a final glimpse of the majestic Himalayas from a different perspective.
Kathmandu Calling:ย Upon arrival in Kathmandu, a wave of familiar sights and sounds will greet you. Take a moment to appreciate the return to civilization and the comfort of a bustling city.
Rest:ย After a long and demanding trek, prioritize rest. Recharge your batteries and allow your body to recover from the physical challenges of the past few weeks.
Souvenir Shopping Delights:ย If youโre feeling rejuvenated, Kathmandu offers a treasure trove of souvenir shopping options. Find unique handcrafted items, traditional clothing, and local artwork to commemorate your adventure. Your guides will be happy to assist you in navigating the vibrant markets.
Sightseeing Adventures:ย For those eager to explore further, Kathmandu boasts a rich cultural heritage and historical landmarks. Your knowledgeable guides can recommend sightseeing options based on your interests, allowing you to delve deeper into the heart of Nepal.
Fond Farewells:ย Bid farewell to your fellow adventurers and guides who shared this incredible experience with you. Exchange contact information and promise to reminisce about the challenges overcome and the breathtaking beauty witnessed.
Airport Transfer:ย Allow ample time for your transfer to Kathmandu airport. The estimated journey takes approximately 3 hours, ensuring a smooth and stress-free transition to your departing flight.
One Last Look:ย As you leave Kathmandu, take a final glance at the city that served as your gateway to the Himalayas. Let the experiences of the past weeks linger in your mind, carrying with you a newfound appreciation for Nepali culture and the awe-inspiring power of nature.
This may be the end of your official itinerary, but the memories and the spirit of adventure youโve cultivated on this trip will undoubtedly stay with you forever. Safe travels and bon voyage!
Khangri Shar's elevation is approximately 6,792 meters (22,277 feet) above sea level.
Khangri Shar is situated in the Khumbu region of the Nepalese Himalayas, near the Everest region.
Information about the technical difficulties involved in climbing the peak and the required mountaineering skills.
An update on the current climbing status of the mountain, including any previous successful attempts or whether it remains unclimbed.
Information about the necessary permits and paperwork for climbing in the area, as well as logistics such as accommodation, transportation, and support staff.
A comprehensive list of essential gear and equipment required for the expedition, including climbing gear, clothing, and personal items.
Guidance on the required level of physical fitness, previous climbing experience, and training needed to participate in the expedition.
Information about the safety protocols, emergency procedures, and medical support available during the expedition.
Details about responsible climbing practices, cultural sensitivities, and environmental conservation efforts during the expedition.
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"๐๐ณ ๐๐ผ๐'๐ฟ๐ฒ ๐ถ๐ป๐๐ฒ๐ฟ๐ฒ๐๐๐ฒ๐ฑ ๐ถ๐ป ๐ฑ๐ถ๐๐ฐ๐๐๐๐ถ๐ป๐ด ๐๐ผ๐๐ฟ ๐ป๐ฒ๐ ๐ ๐ฎ๐ฑ๐๐ฒ๐ป๐๐๐ฟ๐ฒ, ๐ป๐ฒ๐ฒ๐ฑ ๐ฎ๐๐๐ถ๐๐๐ฎ๐ป๐ฐ๐ฒ ๐๐ถ๐๐ต ๐ฝ๐น๐ฎ๐ป๐ป๐ถ๐ป๐ด, ๐ผ๐ฟ ๐๐ถ๐บ๐ฝ๐น๐ ๐๐ฎ๐ป๐ ๐๐ผ ๐ต๐ฎ๐๐ฒ ๐ฎ ๐ฐ๐ต๐ฎ๐ ๐ฎ๐ฏ๐ผ๐๐ ๐ฎ๐ป๐ ๐๐ผ๐ฝ๐ถ๐ฐ, ๐ณ๐ฒ๐ฒ๐น ๐ณ๐ฟ๐ฒ๐ฒ ๐๐ผ ๐ฎ๐๐ธ ๐บ๐ฒ ๐ฎ๐ป๐๐๐ต๐ถ๐ป๐ด ๐ต๐ฒ๐ฟ๐ฒ. ๐'๐บ ๐บ๐ผ๐ฟ๐ฒ ๐๐ต๐ฎ๐ป ๐ต๐ฎ๐ฝ๐ฝ๐ ๐๐ผ ๐ต๐ฒ๐น๐ฝ ๐ถ๐ป ๐ฎ๐ป๐ ๐๐ฎ๐ ๐ ๐ฐ๐ฎ๐ป!"
"๐ช๐ฒ ๐ต๐ฎ๐๐ฒ ๐ฎ ๐๐ฒ๐ฎ๐บ ๐ผ๐ณ ๐ฒ๐ ๐ฝ๐ฒ๐ฟ๐ถ๐ฒ๐ป๐ฐ๐ฒ๐ฑ ๐๐ฟ๐ฎ๐๐ฒ๐น ๐ฒ๐ ๐ฝ๐ฒ๐ฟ๐๐ ๐๐ต๐ผ ๐ต๐ฎ๐๐ฒ ๐ฏ๐ฒ๐ฒ๐ป ๐๐ผ๐ฟ๐ธ๐ถ๐ป๐ด ๐ถ๐ป ๐๐ต๐ถ๐ ๐ถ๐ป๐ฑ๐๐๐๐ฟ๐ ๐ณ๐ผ๐ฟ ๐ผ๐๐ฒ๐ฟ ๐ฎ ๐ฑ๐ฒ๐ฐ๐ฎ๐ฑ๐ฒ. ๐๐ฒ๐ฒ๐น ๐ณ๐ฟ๐ฒ๐ฒ ๐๐ผ ๐ฐ๐ผ๐ป๐๐๐น๐ ๐๐ถ๐๐ต ๐๐ ๐๐ผ ๐ด๐ฒ๐ ๐๐๐ฎ๐ฟ๐๐ฒ๐ฑ ๐ผ๐ป ๐๐ผ๐๐ฟ ๐ป๐ฒ๐ ๐ ๐ฎ๐ฑ๐๐ฒ๐ป๐๐๐ฟ๐ฒ!"
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