Nanga Parbat is genuinely awe-inspiring. It is the ninth-highest peak in the world and the second-highest in Pakistan after K2. The south face is the world’s most significant, extending four kilometers above the base camp. There have only been five ascents from the south to date. Nanga Parbat means “Naked Mountain” in Urdu, referring to the south face’s exposed rock buttresses. The north face is similarly menacing. In contrast to the south face’s sheer rock and ice, the snowy north face is protected by a wide barrier of seracs that spans the breadth of the mountain.  Climbers before the Second World War thought that the only route to ascend the mountain was from the north, by an extended long arc spanning over Rakhiot Peak (7010m), between the two summits of Silberzacken, and eventually to the summit of Nanga Parbat, so avoiding a more direct ascent of the north face. The path was avalanche-prone and exposed to poor weather. The peak became known as “Killer Mountain” because 31 people died attempting to climb it.

It is no longer such a killer, and there are other peaks that may acquire the moniker (eg Ultar or Batura I). Hermann Buhl’s summit path has only been replicated once (in Slovakia in 1971). His ascension was just the third 8000-meter ascent after Annapurna I (1950) and Everest, and it was the only first summit of all the 8000-ers to be completed without the use of oxygen and, of course, alone. Nowadays, most efforts are made through the Westerly Diamir Face, which is widely regarded as the simplest and safest path along the Kinshofer Route, the typical route.

The most popular approach is from the west, and all routes here lead to “The Japanese Couloir,” which is located on top of the north-west face. The first climb (1958) was by Spur Peak, followed by the lengthy southeast ridge to the summit.

Base Camp for the Expedition

We established a permanent expedition base camp for the duration of the Ama Dablam expedition. Each member gets a tent complete with a comfy mattress and cushion. We offer a large dining hall with chairs and tables that is carpeted and heated, as well as a communication tent, a shower tent, and a toilet tent. These are all kept clean. Every member of the climbing crew has their own tent as well as cooking and storage facilities. We have an amazing cook at base camp who prepares delicious meals. In addition, we have an expedition team manager who handles all of the necessary logistics for a successful expedition.

Approach to Climbing and Training

The proper ways to use climbing equipment, such as the ice axe, climbing boots, crampons, harnesses, ascent and descent, safety procedures, abseiling, and belaying, will be covered in training sessions led by 14 summit expedition guides. Rope climbing will also be practiced during the session. Our chances of reaching the peak will rise as a result of the training, which will increase our confidence and climbing abilities.

Mountaineering and Team Structure

The expedition will be accompanied by an experienced English-speaking high-altitude guide. At the time of climbing, there will be a 1:1 climber-to-guide ratio. All climbing Sherpa guides have comprehensive outdoor medical training and are capable of dealing with common medical conditions. This arrangement ensures that if somebody in the group becomes ill, the trip may continue as planned for the other members of the group. During the trip, there will be one

Requirements for Experience and Physical Fitness

experience at high altitudes over 6000 m and with rock and ice climbing will be advantageous. Learn how to use climbing and descending aids on the mountain and how to crampon walk on a glacier. It will take 8 to 9 hours to trek uphill and downhill on summit day. Climbers must feel secure and at ease while climbing up or down steep, challenging terrain on fixed ropes. It’s crucial for those with health issues, including heart, lung, and blood problems, to speak with their doctors before the trip.