The Makalu Expedition refers to mountaineering expeditions that aim to climb Mount Makalu, the fifth-highest mountain in the world. Located in the Mahalangur Himalayas, on the border between Nepal and China, Makalu stands at an elevation of 8,485 meters (27,838 feet).
Mount Makalu is known for its challenging terrain and difficult climbing conditions, making it a popular destination for experienced mountaineers seeking a formidable climbing experience. The first successful ascent of Makalu took place in 1955 by a French expedition led by Jean Franco. Since then, numerous expeditions have been organized to conquer its summit.
The typical route to climb Makalu is via the southeast ridge, which involves technical climbing and requires a high level of mountaineering expertise. The expedition usually involves several weeks of acclimatization and preparation in base camps at lower elevations before attempting the summit push.
Mount Makalu’s remote location and rugged environment add to the difficulty and allure of the expedition. The climbers must navigate steep slopes, icy ridges, crevasses, and unpredictable weather conditions. Due to its challenging nature, Makalu attracts experienced mountaineers who have already gained expertise in high-altitude climbing.
We are pleased to provide a comprehensive base camp for the Makalu expeditions. Our primary objective is to ensure the comfort and safety of all expedition members throughout their stay. Below are the details of the base camp facilities and services:
Accommodation:ย Each member will be assigned a tent equipped with a comfortable mattress and cushion to ensure a good nightโs rest. The tents are spacious enough to accommodate personal belongings and provide privacy.
Dining Hall:ย We offer a large dining hall with carpeted and heated floors. Inside, you will find chairs and tables where members can gather for meals and socialize. The dining hall provides a warm and comfortable environment for sharing experiences and refueling after a challenging day.
Communication Facilities: We have designated tents equipped with communication equipment, ensuring that members can stay connected with the outside world if needed. This ensures efficient communication between the base camp and the outside support teams.
Shower | Toilet Facilities: Separate tents are available for showering and toileting. These facilities are well-maintained and kept clean to provide comfort and hygiene to all members.
Individual Tents for Climbing Crew:ย Every climbing crew member will have a tent for privacy and personal space. Additionally, separate tents will be provided for cooking and storage, ensuring that all necessary equipment and supplies are readily accessible.
Expedition Team Manager:ย Our base camp is supported by an experienced expedition team manager who handles all logistics and ensures the smooth operation of the expedition. They will coordinate with the climbing Sherpas, guides, and other support staff to facilitate a successful and well-organized journey.
Goal Setting:ย Clearly define your climbing goals, whether itโs reaching the summit of a specific mountain, completing a challenging route, or improving your overall mountaineering skills. This will help guide your training and preparation.
Physical Fitness:ย Mountaineering requires a high level of physical fitness. Develop a training plan that includes cardiovascular exercises, strength training, and endurance activities. Focus on building leg and core strength, as well as improving your cardiovascular endurance through activities like hiking, running, cycling, and stair climbing.
Technical Skills:ย Acquire and continuously improve your technical skills, including rope work, crevasse rescue, glacier travel, navigation, and rock-climbing techniques. Attend mountaineering courses or workshops to learn from experienced climbers and guides.
Altitude Acclimatization:ย As you progress to higher altitudes, your body needs time to acclimatize to the lower oxygen levels. Plan your climbs with acclimatization days and gradually increase your altitude exposure. This helps minimize the risk of altitude sickness and improves your chances of success.
Mental Preparation:ย Climbing can be physically and mentally demanding. Developmental resilience, focus, and the ability to make sound decisions under challenging conditions. Practice mindfulness, visualization, and mental imagery techniques to enhance your mental preparedness.
Safety First: Prioritize safety at all times. Familiarize yourself with the potential hazards and risks associated with mountaineering, such as avalanches, rockfalls, and extreme weather conditions. Carry the necessary safety equipment and always be prepared to turn back if conditions become too dangerous.
Team Size:ย The size of the team depends on the objective and the experience level of the climbers. Smaller teams are generally more agile and efficient, while larger teams can provide additional support and resources. A team size of 2-6 climbers is common for most expeditions.
Roles and Responsibilities: Clearly define the roles and responsibilities of each team member. This includes a leader who makes critical decisions, a navigator who ensures the team stays on the route, and a designated medic who is trained in wilderness first aid.
Communication:ย Establish effective communication protocols within the team. This includes using radios, hand signals, or pre-determined verbal cues to convey important information, coordinate movements, and address potential emergencies.
Experience and Skill Levels:ย Consider the experience and skill levels of team members. Itโs beneficial to have a mix of experienced climbers and less-experienced climbers, as this allows for knowledge sharing and mentorship within the team.
Team Dynamics:ย Build a cohesive team with good interpersonal dynamics. Trust, mutual respect, and effective teamwork are crucial in mountaineering. Regular team meetings, training sessions, and team-building exercises can help foster a positive team environment.
Experience:ย The level of experience required for mountaineering depends on the difficulty and technicality of the objective. For easier peaks or routes, beginners with basic outdoor experience can participate with proper guidance from experienced climbers or professional guides. As the difficulty increases, more technical skills, glacier travel experience, and knowledge of mountaineering techniques become necessary.
Technical Skills:ย Develop proficiency in technical mountaineering skills such as rope work, ice axe and crampon techniques, belaying, and rappelling. Gain experience in multi-pitch climbing and glacier travel. Progress gradually from easier climbs to more challenging routes as you build your skills and confidence.
Physical Fitness:ย Mountaineering demands a high level of physical fitness. You should have good cardiovascular endurance, strength, and stamina.
which stands at an elevation of 8484 meters (27,940 feet), during the spring and autumn seasons. These seasons provide the most favorable weather conditions and a higher chance of successful ascents. The specific months for climbing Makalu can vary slightly based on individual expeditions and weather patterns, but here are some general guidelines:
Spring Season | April to May: This is the primary climbing season for Makalu. During spring, the weather tends to be more stable with lower wind speeds and less precipitation. The temperature gradually becomes more bearable as the season progresses. Many climbers choose this season for their Makalu expeditions due to better climbing conditions and longer daylight hours.
Autumn Season | September to November:ย The autumn season is another popular time for climbing Lhotse. The weather during this period is generally stable, with cooler temperatures and less rainfall compared to the summer monsoon season. The mountain tends to be less crowded during the autumn season compared to spring, providing a quieter and more serene climbing experience.
Both the spring and autumn seasons offer climbers relatively stable weather windows, but itโs important to note that the weather in the high Himalayas can be unpredictable, and climbers must be prepared for sudden changes in conditions.
The Makalu Expedition is a challenging and awe-inspiring journey that takes climbers to the summit of Mount Makalu, the fifth-highest mountain in the world. Here is some detailed information about the expedition:
Duration: The Makalu Expedition typically lasts for about 35 to 45 days, including acclimatization periods. This duration allows climbers to adapt to the high altitude and challenging conditions, ensuring their safety and increasing their chances of a successful summit attempt.
Distance: The distance covered during the Makalu Expedition depends on the chosen route and approach. The most common route starts with a flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar, followed by a trek to the base camp. The trek alone can cover approximately 100 kilometers (62 miles) one way, taking climbers through diverse landscapes, remote villages, and breathtaking valleys.
Climbing Hours Each Camp: As climbers progress higher on the mountain, they establish several camps to facilitate their ascent and descent. The time spent at each camp can vary, but here is a general breakdown of the climbing hours at the major camps:
Camp 1: Located at an altitude of approximately 6,100 meters (20,013 feet), climbers typically spend around 5 to 7 hours here, depending on weather conditions and individual acclimatization needs.
Camp 2: Situated at an altitude of around 6,800 meters (22,310 feet), climbers usually spend 1 to 2 nights at this camp, dedicating around 6 to 8 hours to reach it from Camp 1.
Camp 3: Positioned at approximately 7,400 meters (24,278 feet), climbers spend approximately 1 to 2 nights here. The ascent from Camp 2 to Camp 3 typically takes around 5 to 7 hours.
Camp 4: This is the final high camp located at an altitude of around 8,000 meters (26,247 feet), just below the summit. Climbers usually spend a few hours here for rest and final preparations before attempting the summit push.
Difficulty: The Makalu Expedition is considered one of the most challenging climbs in the Himalayas. It demands technical mountaineering skills, high fitness levels, and previous experience with high-altitude expeditions. The route involves steep and icy sections, exposed ridges, and unpredictable weather conditions. Climbers should be well-prepared physically, mentally, and technically to overcome the difficulties posed by the mountain.
Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world, standing at 8,485 meters (27,838 feet). It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas, on the border between Nepal and Tibet. Its impressive stature and steep, pyramid-shaped summit make it a sought-after peak for mountaineers.
Makalu’s remote location adds to the allure and challenge of the expedition. The mountain lies in a relatively untouched region of eastern Nepal, far from the popular Everest region. The journey to the base camp involves traversing rugged terrain, dense forests, and crossing high-altitude passes.
Makalu is renowned for its technical difficulty. The climb involves negotiating steep sections, mixed rock and ice, and challenging ridges. The final push to the summit often requires technical ice climbing and exposed traverses, demanding a high level of mountaineering skills and experience.
Like any high-altitude expedition, acclimatization is crucial. Climbers typically follow a gradual ascent profile, spending several weeks at different camps to allow their bodies to adapt to the thin air. This process helps minimize the risk of altitude sickness and maximizes the chances of a successful summit attempt.
The Makalu base camp is a vibrant and bustling community during the climbing season. Tents and expedition teams from various countries create a multicultural environment. Climbers and support staff work together to establish a functional camp, organizing logistics, and preparing for the climb ahead.
The Makalu region offers breathtaking natural beauty. From the dense forests at lower altitudes to the vast glaciers and towering peaks higher up, climbers are treated to awe-inspiring vistas throughout the expedition. The panoramic views from the summit of Makalu are particularly spectacular, with sweeping vistas of neighboring peaks like Everest, Lhotse, and Kanchenjunga.
Successfully reaching the summit of Makalu is a significant personal achievement for any climber. It requires perseverance, physical endurance, mental strength, and a deep respect for the mountain and its challenges. The sense of accomplishment and the memories forged during the expedition make it a life-changing experience for many climbers.
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You must follow a few formal requirements when you arrive at the Tribhuvan International Airport to receive the Nepal entry visa at the immigration office.
Our office representatives will welcome you outside the terminal hall and transfer you to the hotel. brief you about tomorrowโs activities and collect any documents required by our office.
On the second day, we will complete all of our formalities, such as getting the required paperwork, permits, and other formalities required for our expedition, and we will begin making preparations for it. We will now prepare our luggage, go shopping, and double-check everything we need (especially medicines and essentials). There will be briefings on every part of the expedition, including all gear and equipment, the length of the trip, lodging options, base camp facilities, and all other aspects related to the expedition. It also gives you the chance to interact with and get to know your climbing companions and colleagues.
We will go to the airport after an early-morning meal and take a 35-minuteย ย flight to Tumlingtar, the deepest valley in Nepal. The entrance to Makalu Barun National Park is located in the Sankhuwasabha district of Tumlingtar. From there, we’ll meet up with the rest of the team and drive for around four to five hours to Num, a tiny village in Nepal’s Koshi area. We’ll spend the night in a tent camp there.
After a night in Num, we went off on the trek to Sheduwa. First, we descend sharply for two and a half hours to reach the Neguwa River with a suspension bridge, which we cross to enter the deep woods and little communities. We get to see the lovely crop farms on terraced fields. Later, we arrive at a checkpoint at Makalu Conservation Area, where we must get admission permits.
The path from Sheduwa to Tashi Gaon is simple since we go on level areas through the bushes with intermittent ascents. After nearly 4 hours of traveling, we arrive at Tashigaon, a massive Sherpa village.
The route from Tashi Gaon to Khongma is an uphill walk through rhododendron and pine forests. The Kongma La ridge has a single tea house. So we set up a tented camp and slept the night away. Our chefs and cooks have prepared delicious meals for you.
We leave Khongma on a route that ascends till we reach a beautiful lake, “Kalo Pokhari” meaning “a black lake,” at 4004 m, and then descends to Mumbuk.
The trip becomes more challenging and risky after Mumbuk, as the trail passes through a landslide-prone region. The routes’ last sections rise through meadows and woodlands. Mt Tutse, Peak 7 (6185 m), Isuwa La (5340 m), and many more peaks provide breathtaking vistas. The Kharka is pastoral land and an excellent camping location.
We ascend from Nehe Kharka to Mt. Makalu’s Lower Base Camp. Mt. Makalu (8481 m), Baruntse (7152 m), Kali Himal (6985 m), Chamlang (7390 m), and Makalu II (7640 m) are all visible from the base camp. We will spend two additional days at the lower base camp for acclimatization and adventure preparation.
After acclimatizing in the lower base camp, we climb up to the higher base camp at roughly 5600 m.
Before heading to the higher elevations, we have to spend several nights at base camp to properly acclimate. We will do one or two rotation climb up to Camp III before pushing for our summit of makalu. we organize training in base cam covering climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, abseiling, belaying, and the use of oxygen, a mask, and a regulator.
After completing basic and advanced training with your climbing Sherpa guide, you will be prepared to try the climb to Camp 1, which is located at a height of 6100โ6400 m. Once on the glacier, you’ll encounter a variety of terrain, including crevasses, moraines, and 200 meters of blue ice. Camp one is divided into two sections: lower camp one and higher camp one, separated by a few hundred meters.
The route from camp one to camp two on Mt. Makalu is considered a fairly challenging climb with ice and snow. climbing across snow and ice, and there are a few patches of ice. These sections can be crossed using fixed ropes. Camp 2 is located atop the snow-covered terrace
We will next approach Camp III at 7200 meters after several days of preparation. For those climbers ascending without oxygen, we will stay in Camp III and move to Camp IV the next day as we gently descend to Camp II for the night. Your trek to the summit will be made simpler by these constant rotations. These will help you improve your climbing tool and gear skills.
After long hikes and climbs, our bodies need to recover. We will thus descend to the Base Camp, which is at a considerably lower height, after spending the night in Camp II. We use these ascents and descents to acclimatize to the Himalayas and prepare to ascend to Camp IV and above the Death Zone.
Before ascending to the summit, we allotted a few days for full rest. For this, we may either fly back to Kathmandu (for those who can afford it). Our expedition leaders and the crew will assess the weather while at rest to determine when to make the final summit push. Our teams and climbing sherpas will build higher camps at Camp IV during these respite periods in preparation for the summit push.
final briefing on the everyday camp and Everest summit push. The equipment of the members will be checked by the expedition leaders to make sure everything is ready for our upcoming expedition.
The route from camp one to camp two on Mt. Makalu is considered a fairly challenging climb with ice and snow. climbing across snow and ice, and there are a few patches of ice. These sections can be crossed using fixed ropes. Camp 2 is located atop the snow-covered terrace.
The 600-meter distance between camps two and three is the longest section of the trip. There are no ladder crossings required. A climbing sherpa crew fixes the main ropes. This is the camp from which 30% of climbers want to make their summit push. This section takes about four hours for normal climbers and five hours for experts.
Because the oxygen levels are so low at this altitude, we need supplementary oxygen during the IV. In this stage, you must climb for three hours on steep snow. It’s a bit risky in the autumn since the snow slope is covered with a layer of ice, making the area avalanche-prone. The camp will be put up directly above Makalu La.
On the summit day of Makalu, most climbers begin their ascent at about 11:00 p.m. If all goes well, they will arrive at the main summit between 7 and 10 a.m. It takes roughly five hours to return to Camp Four from the summit, and another two hours to go to Camp Three. We will return to Camp II and rest the night there after spending the night in Camp III or Camp II.
we will descend back to Base Camp, and, in keeping with our duty as responsible travelers, we will clean up all the waste around the camp. We’ll then get ready to make the trip back to Kathmandu.
Through the challenging trek, we make our way back to Yangle Kharka. After that, we’ll spend the night in a tent camp at Yangle Kharka.
We follow the same route over landslide-prone terrain back to Yangle Kharka. We eventually make it to Khongma, where we will set up a tent for the night, after traveling for around four hours.
During our return, we cover more distance as we descend on major parts. So, we trek to Sheduwa through Tashigaon upon our return.
The trail from Sheduwa to Num descends steeply at the start and later ascends to reach Num. After passing a small forest of bamboo and small villages, we finally reach Num.
Today, we fly back to Kathmandu after our long time in the mountains. We can rest and relax throughout the day at our hotel or get in touch with our loved ones. In the evening we celebrate our successful jouney to the Makalu expedition and back with a farewell dinner.
Final Departure to your own destinations-ย Generally 3 hours beforeย your flight time to get Kathmandu airport is needed in Nepal
Extra: Any other services or activities that are not mentioned in the itinerary. Any other item not listed in the โCost Includesโ Section.
Yes, our airport representative will be there to receive you at the airport. Office staff will be showing the adventure 14 summit signboard. Upon arrival, you will be transferred to your hotel.
Please bring a copy of your travel insurance, a copy of your passport, and three photos (passport size) with you for your trip to Nepal. You would need photos for permits
Yes, you can easily obtain a visa upon your arrival at Tribhuwan International Airport in Kathmandu.
A Makalu Expedition refers to an organized mountaineering endeavor aimed at reaching the summit of Mount Makalu. Mount Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world, located in the Mahalangur Himalayas, on the border between Nepal and China (Tibet). It stands at a height of 8,485 meters (27,838 feet).
Makalu is considered one of the most challenging mountains to climb. It features steep slopes, technical sections, and unpredictable weather conditions, which make it a demanding and technically difficult expedition. The climbing routes often involve ice and rock climbing, traversing glaciers, and negotiating crevasses. Due to its difficulties, Makalu is typically attempted by experienced mountaineers with prior high-altitude climbing experience.
The duration of a Makalu Expedition can vary depending on several factors, including the chosen route, weather conditions, and the climbers' acclimatization process. On average, a Makalu Expedition can take around 45 to 60 days. This duration includes several weeks of trekking to the base camp, establishing higher camps, acclimatization rotations, and the final summit push.
The most favorable time for a Makalu Expedition is during the spring season, which typically spans from April to May. During this period, the weather conditions are relatively stable with lower chances of heavy snowfall and storms. The temperatures are also milder, making it more suitable for climbing. However, it's important to note that weather conditions in high-altitude mountains can be unpredictable, and climbers must be prepared for sudden changes.
The most favorable time for a Makalu Expedition is during the spring season, which typically spans from April to May. During this period, the weather conditions are relatively stable with lower chances of heavy snowfall and storms. The temperatures are also milder, making it more suitable for climbing. However, it's important to note that weather conditions in high-altitude mountains can be unpredictable, and climbers must be prepared for sudden changes.
Yes, a climbing permit is required to undertake a Makalu Expedition. The permit is issued by the Nepal Government and can be obtained through a registered trekking agency in Nepal. In addition to the climbing permit, climbers are also required to obtain a trekking permit for the Makalu Barun National Park, as the mountain lies within its boundaries.
Yes, there are several risks and hazards associated with a Makalu Expedition. These include high altitude sickness, extreme weather conditions, avalanches, crevasses, rockfall, and technical climbing challenges. The extreme altitude of Mount Makalu poses a significant risk to climbers, and adequate acclimatization is crucial to minimize altitude-related illnesses. It's essential to have a skilled team of climbers, experienced guides, and proper equipment to mitigate the risks involved.
Climbing Makalu without previous mountaineering experience is highly discouraged. Due to the technical difficulties and extreme conditions, it is essential to have prior high-altitude climbing experience, proficiency in technical skills like ice and rock climbing, and knowledge of mountaineering techniques. It is recommended to gain experience by climbing other mountains and gradually working towards more challenging expeditions like Makalu.
We take every effort to ensure our trekkers' safety and well-being, but be confident that professional guides are experienced and knowledgeable in handling emergency situations. If required, your guide will use your travel insurance documents to request a rescue chopper and fly you to Kathmandu for medical treatment.
Minor altitude sickness symptoms, such as a headache, are quite common, and you can continue walking. However, if you have any new symptoms, it is critical that you do not continue your climb to a higher elevation. We may usually plan for you to walk down to a lower elevation and wait a few days for the symptoms to improve before continuing on to the next level.
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"๐๐ณ ๐๐ผ๐'๐ฟ๐ฒ ๐ถ๐ป๐๐ฒ๐ฟ๐ฒ๐๐๐ฒ๐ฑ ๐ถ๐ป ๐ฑ๐ถ๐๐ฐ๐๐๐๐ถ๐ป๐ด ๐๐ผ๐๐ฟ ๐ป๐ฒ๐ ๐ ๐ฎ๐ฑ๐๐ฒ๐ป๐๐๐ฟ๐ฒ, ๐ป๐ฒ๐ฒ๐ฑ ๐ฎ๐๐๐ถ๐๐๐ฎ๐ป๐ฐ๐ฒ ๐๐ถ๐๐ต ๐ฝ๐น๐ฎ๐ป๐ป๐ถ๐ป๐ด, ๐ผ๐ฟ ๐๐ถ๐บ๐ฝ๐น๐ ๐๐ฎ๐ป๐ ๐๐ผ ๐ต๐ฎ๐๐ฒ ๐ฎ ๐ฐ๐ต๐ฎ๐ ๐ฎ๐ฏ๐ผ๐๐ ๐ฎ๐ป๐ ๐๐ผ๐ฝ๐ถ๐ฐ, ๐ณ๐ฒ๐ฒ๐น ๐ณ๐ฟ๐ฒ๐ฒ ๐๐ผ ๐ฎ๐๐ธ ๐บ๐ฒ ๐ฎ๐ป๐๐๐ต๐ถ๐ป๐ด ๐ต๐ฒ๐ฟ๐ฒ. ๐'๐บ ๐บ๐ผ๐ฟ๐ฒ ๐๐ต๐ฎ๐ป ๐ต๐ฎ๐ฝ๐ฝ๐ ๐๐ผ ๐ต๐ฒ๐น๐ฝ ๐ถ๐ป ๐ฎ๐ป๐ ๐๐ฎ๐ ๐ ๐ฐ๐ฎ๐ป!"
"๐ช๐ฒ ๐ต๐ฎ๐๐ฒ ๐ฎ ๐๐ฒ๐ฎ๐บ ๐ผ๐ณ ๐ฒ๐ ๐ฝ๐ฒ๐ฟ๐ถ๐ฒ๐ป๐ฐ๐ฒ๐ฑ ๐๐ฟ๐ฎ๐๐ฒ๐น ๐ฒ๐ ๐ฝ๐ฒ๐ฟ๐๐ ๐๐ต๐ผ ๐ต๐ฎ๐๐ฒ ๐ฏ๐ฒ๐ฒ๐ป ๐๐ผ๐ฟ๐ธ๐ถ๐ป๐ด ๐ถ๐ป ๐๐ต๐ถ๐ ๐ถ๐ป๐ฑ๐๐๐๐ฟ๐ ๐ณ๐ผ๐ฟ ๐ผ๐๐ฒ๐ฟ ๐ฎ ๐ฑ๐ฒ๐ฐ๐ฎ๐ฑ๐ฒ. ๐๐ฒ๐ฒ๐น ๐ณ๐ฟ๐ฒ๐ฒ ๐๐ผ ๐ฐ๐ผ๐ป๐๐๐น๐ ๐๐ถ๐๐ต ๐๐ ๐๐ผ ๐ด๐ฒ๐ ๐๐๐ฎ๐ฟ๐๐ฒ๐ฑ ๐ผ๐ป ๐๐ผ๐๐ฟ ๐ป๐ฒ๐ ๐ ๐ฎ๐ฑ๐๐ฒ๐ป๐๐๐ฟ๐ฒ!"
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