ISLAND PEAK WITH AMA DABLAM 

Double Challenge

Taking on Island Peak (6,189 m) and Ama Dablam (6,812 m) in a single expedition is one of the most rewarding ways to progress as a climber in the Himalayas. This combination is designed for those who want to build altitude tolerance, sharpen technical skills, and experience two legendary summits within one continuous journey. It’s not just a climbing plan—it’s a carefully crafted progression that prepares your body and mind for bigger mountains in the future.

Island Peak is the perfect starting point, offering a high-altitude ascent above 6,000 meters that allows your body to gradually adjust to the Himalayan environment. The climb introduces essential alpine skills such as glacier travel, fixed-line techniques, and negotiating a steep snow and ice headwall. By the time you stand on the summit of Island Peak, your acclimatisation is strong, your climbing rhythm is set, and you’re physically prepared for what comes next.

Ama Dablam, often called the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas,” raises the bar with more technical terrain—exposed ridges, precision ropework, and steeper pitches that demand focus and experience. The transition from Island Peak to Ama Dablam feels natural: the altitude progression is steady, and the skills you practised earlier on the trip become essential tools for this iconic climb.

Together, these two mountains create a beautifully balanced expedition—one that blends preparation with challenge, and difficulty with reward. Climbers finish this journey not only with two major Himalayan summits but also with the confidence and experience needed for future high-altitude peaks, including 7,000m and even 8,000m expeditions.

Historical First Ascents

Island Peak (Imja Tse)

First climbed on 3 May 1956 by a Swiss expedition led by Hans-Rudolf von Gunten as part of preparation for their successful Lhotse and Everest climbs.

Ama Dablam (6,189 m)

First summited on 13 March 1961 by a New Zealand team: Mike Gill, Wally Romanes, Barry Bishop, and Mike Ward, via the legendary Southwest Ridge.

Guide-to-Client Ratios 

Island Peak & Ama Dablam

A: 1:1 (One Guide per Client) – Maximum Safety, The most secure and personalised climbing experience. Recommended for summit day on both peaks, especially for first-time climbers or those who want maximum support.

B: 1:2 (One Guide for Two Climbers) – Ideal for Experienced Teams. This is the most common ratio for Island Peak and Ama Dablam expeditions. It balances cost, efficiency, and safety while ensuring professional guidance.

C: 3–4 (One Guide for Three to Four Climbers) – Island Peak Only, Suitable for highly experienced teams moving confidently at altitude. This ratio is not recommended for the technical sections on Ama Dablam.

Ama Dablam

Technical Difficulty

Although Ama Dablam (6,812m) is lower in elevation than the eight-thousanders, it is widely recognized as one of the most technically demanding peaks in the Himalayas. Its climb tests both skill and stamina, making it an ideal preparation for higher mountains like Everest, Lhotse, or Manaslu. The ascent typically follows this progression:

Base Camp (4,600m):

Climbers arrive here after trekking from the Everest region. This camp serves as the main hub for acclimatisation and preparation.

Camp 1 (5,800m):

Accessed via steep rocky ridges where climbers often rely on fixed ropes to navigate exposed sections safely.

Camp 2 (6,000m):

The route becomes more technical, involving exposed mixed climbing over rock towers and narrow ridgelines.

Camp 3 (6,300m):

Situated just below the hanging glacier, this camp presents crevasse risks and steep ice slopes.

Summit Push (6,812m):

The final climb demands navigating 60–70° snow and ice slopes, often in high winds, requiring full technical climbing skills and mental focus.

Ama Dablam is often considered the “next step” for climbers who have previously tackled peaks like Island Peak, offering a crucial experience in high-altitude technical climbing.

Island Peak (6,189 m) 

Intermediate Climbing Adventure

Island Peak offers climbers a thrilling high-altitude experience without extreme technical challenges. At 6,189 meters, it’s an ideal peak for gaining confidence in mountaineering skills, practicing rope techniques, and experiencing stunning Himalayan vistas. Perfect for adventurers looking to bridge trekking and serious climbing, it’s a rewarding climb that prepares you for higher, more technical peaks in the region.

Island Peak (6,189m) is classified as a trekking peak, ideal for physically fit trekkers with some basic mountaineering experience. The ascent involves glacier travel, negotiating crevasses, using fixed ropes, and a final 150m steep headwall to the summit.

Island Peak & Ama Dablam Expedition

Double Challenge

For climbers seeking a perfect blend of acclimatisation, technical climbing experience, and the thrill of summiting iconic Himalayan peaks, combining Island Peak (6,189 m) and Ama Dablam (6,812 m) offers an ideal adventure. This expedition provides a gradual progression in both altitude and difficulty, preparing climbers for future high-altitude endeavors.

Best Seasons for Climbing

Spring (March to May):

Spring offers moderate temperatures at lower elevations, longer daylight hours, and the vibrant beauty of blooming rhododendrons along the trekking routes. Snow conditions at higher altitudes are generally stable, making it a prime season for technical climbs like Ama Dablam. Note, however, that spring is a popular season, and trails can be busy.

Autumn (September to November):

Autumn delivers predictable, stable weather with minimal chances of rain or snowfall. Visibility is exceptional, providing breathtaking panoramic views of the Himalayas. Trails are dry and safe, ideal for trekking and climbing. Like spring, autumn is a peak season, so expect some crowds at key camps and on the trails.

Island Peak (Imja Tse)

Base Camp (5,087 m):

The starting point for the climb, Base Camp, allows climbers to organise gear, rest, and acclimatise. Most climbers spend 1–2 nights here before ascending higher.

High Camp (5,500–5,600 m):

Situated on the glacier, High Camp shortens the summit push and helps reduce fatigue. Climbers typically stay one night before making the final ascent.

Summit (6,185 m):

From the summit ridge, climbers are rewarded with stunning views of the Imja Valley, as well as Everest and Lhotse dominating the horizon.

Ama Dablam Expedition 

Camp Elevations

Base Camp (4,570 m / 15,000 ft):

Nestled in a scenic meadow with spectacular views of Ama Dablam’s SW ridge, this camp serves as the starting point for all climbing rotations.

Advanced Base Camp (ABC, 5,400 m / 17,700 ft)

Optional:

Positioned just below the SW ridge, ABC helps shorten the approach to Camp 1 for some teams.

1: Camp 1 (5,800 m / 19,028 ft):

Located on a rocky ridge, this camp involves rock scrambling and fixed ropes from BC or ABC. Tent space is limited.

2: Camp 2 (5,900 m / 19,357 ft):

Perched on an exposed ledge below the Yellow Tower, C2 offers extraordinary views but a minimal camping area.

4: Camp 3 (6,300 m / 20,669 ft):

Situated beneath the hanging glacier (the Dablam), C3 is prone to icefall hazards. Experienced climbers sometimes bypass this camp en route to the summit.

5: Summit (6,812 m / 22,349 ft):

The final ascent involves steep snow and ice slopes, with panoramic vistas of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and the surrounding Khumbu peaks.

Island Peak & Ama Dablam Expedition

Services 

At Adventure Fourteen Summit, we offer comprehensive expedition support to make your climb of Island Peak (6,189 m) and Ama Dablam (6,812 m) as safe, comfortable, and successful as possible. Choose from two service options tailored to your needs:

Full Board Service

Our Full Board Service covers every aspect of your expedition from arrival to departure, ensuring a seamless experience. This package includes:

1: All climbing permits and paperwork

2: Transportation throughout the trek and expedition

3: Accommodation and meals

4: Experienced guides and porters

5: Supplementary oxygen for high-altitude support

6: Complete climbing logistics up to the summit

This option is ideal for climbers who want complete support and peace of mind while focusing entirely on the climb.

Base Camp Service

For those seeking a more independent experience, our Base Camp Service provides essential support up to Base Camp:

1: Permits and transportation

2: Accommodation and meals at Base Camp

3: Access to Base Camp facilities

Beyond Base Camp, climbers manage their ascent independently, giving flexibility to those with experience and confidence in self-guided climbing.

Safety, Acclimatisation

Summit Strategy

Your safety is our top priority. Our expeditions include multiple acclimatisation rotations between Base Camp and higher camps, ensuring your body adapts effectively to the altitude while minimising risks of altitude sickness.

We also offer flexible summit windows based on weather and team readiness, maximising your chances of a successful summit.

Expert Guides & Support Team

All climbs are led by licensed, highly experienced guides who have successfully summited Island Peak, Ama Dablam, and other 8,000-meter peaks multiple times. From technical support to summit strategy and decision-making, our team ensures your climb is safe, well-organised, and memorable.

Transparent, Competitive Pricing

Adventure Fourteen Summit provides full expedition support at competitive rates with no hidden costs. We are committed to offering transparency, value, and an unforgettable Himalayan experience.

Join us to turn your dream of summiting Island Peak and Ama Dablam into reality with the guidance, support, and expertise of Adventure Fourteen Summit.