ANNAPURNA I (8,091M)

The Majestic and Treacherous Giant of Nepal

Annapurna I (8,091 m) stands as one of the most dramatic and respected eight-thousanders in the Himalayas. Located in north-central Nepal within the Annapurna Conservation Area, the mountain rises above deep gorges, rugged ridgelines, and remote valleys. It is part of the Annapurna Massif, which includes several peaks above 7,000 meters—yet Annapurna I remains its crown jewel.

Geographically, the mountain is positioned east of the great Kali Gandaki Gorge, the world’s deepest river gorge, and north of the beautiful Pokhara Valley. The region surrounding the mountain is a blend of dense forests, alpine landscapes, and traditional Gurung and Thakali settlements.

First Ascent of Annapurna I

Annapurna I holds a historic place in world mountaineering. On June 3, 1950, it became the first 8,000-meter peak ever to be climbed, marking a major milestone in human exploration.

The summit team—Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal of France—reached the top after a challenging and dangerous climb via the North Face, a route filled with avalanche-prone slopes and unpredictable weather. Their achievement opened the era of high-altitude climbing and remains one of the boldest expeditions in mountaineering history.

Guide-to-Client Ratio 

Base Camp to Summit

A) 1:1 – One Guide per Client

The safest and most efficient setup, especially for climbers with limited high-altitude experience. Each member receives full support during the summit push.

B) 1:2 – One Guide for Two Clients

Suitable only for experienced, well-acclimatised climbers who can move confidently and consistently as a team.

Standard Oxygen Ratio

A) 4–5 Bottles per Member

The recommended amount for a secure expedition. This covers high camps and summit day, ensuring enough reserve for changing weather or a slow pace.

B) 2 Bottles for Highly Experienced Climbers

Possible for elite or exceptionally acclimatised climbers, but carrying 4–5 bottles remains the safer and more dependable option.

Popular Route to the Summit

The Normal Route (North Face)

The most commonly attempted route to climb Annapurna I today is still the North Face / Northwest Ridge, known as the Normal Route. Although it is the “standard” route, Annapurna I is still considered one of the most difficult and dangerous 8,000-meter mountains because of avalanche risks and complex terrain.

Key Features of the Normal Route

1: Camp I | 5,150m / 16,896 ft

After completing the essential base and advanced training at ABC, climbers continue towards Camp I. This stage involves negotiating mixed terrain—glacier crossings, crevasses, and hard-packed snow. The route is secured with fixed ropes by your climbing Sherpa team. Multiple rotations between Base Camp and Camp I are carried out to build proper acclimatisation and climbing efficiency.

2: Camp II | 5,700m / 18,700 ft

The ascent from Camp I to Camp II involves steeper ice sections and occasional mixed climbing on rock and glacier surfaces. These technical parts are fully fixed with ropes, ensuring secure upward movement. The climb generally takes 4 to 5 hours, depending on weather conditions and pace.

3: Camp III | 6,500m / 21,325 ft

The route from Camp II to Camp III is longer but less technical than the previous sections. Climbers will follow fixed ropes set by Sherpas across wide snowfields leading to a safer, more stable camp platform. This push usually requires 5 to 6 hours, and reaching Camp III marks a major step toward high-altitude readiness.

4: Camp IV | 7,400m / 24,278 ft

Camp IV is the final staging point for the summit push. The climb to this high camp is relatively short, but the altitude adds significant challenge due to low oxygen levels and hidden crevasses. Sherpas ensure the route is fixed and safe, helping climbers conserve energy for summit day.

Summit Day | 8,091m / 26,545 ft – The Final Ascent

Summit day is the most demanding and exhilarating phase of the expedition. Climbers begin the ascent late at night, moving steadily under the starlit sky to reach the summit after 7 to 8 hours of climbing—typically between 8:00 AM and 10:00 AM.

Annapurna One Expedition Timeline 

Spring Season

Late March to Early April – Arrival & Preparation

Upon arrival, all necessary permits are secured, and expedition formalities are completed. The journey begins with a scenic flight to Pokhara then followed by a drive through Beni and Tatopani, leading to the trailhead for Annapurna 1 Base Camp. This initial phase allows climbers to acclimate, organise gear, and mentally prepare for the demanding climb ahead.

Early to Mid-April – Base Camp Establishment

At Base Camp, the team sets up tents, stocks essential supplies, and begins light acclimatisation activities. Short hikes to nearby elevations help climbers gradually adapt to the altitude while building stamina and confidence. This stage also provides valuable time to study the surrounding terrain and observe weather patterns, ensuring readiness for higher climbs.

Mid to Late April – Acclimatisation & Climbing Rotations

Climbers embark on a series of rotations between Base Camp and higher camps to enhance altitude tolerance and technical proficiency. This period focuses on practising essential mountaineering skills such as rope work, ice-axe techniques, and team coordination. Each rotation strengthens both physical endurance and mental resilience, paving the way for a safe summit attempt.

Late April – Summit Push

The final ascent is carefully timed to coincide with a short, favourable weather window. Climbers depart in the early hours, tackling challenging ice and snow, aiming to reach the 8,091-meter summit of Annapurna One. The climb rewards each step with breathtaking Himalayan panoramas and a profound sense of achievement.

Early May – Descent & Departure

After celebrating the summit, the team begins a controlled descent back to Base Camp, retracing the trek to Kathmandu. The expedition concludes safely, leaving climbers with lifelong memories and the extraordinary accomplishment of conquering one of the world’s most iconic peaks.

Annapurna I Expedition Services

Adventure Fourteen Summit offers climbers a fully supported and seamless Annapurna I Expedition experience, tailored to suit both those aiming for a complete summit adventure and those preferring support only up to Base Camp.

Full Board Service

Our Full Board Service covers every aspect of your expedition from arrival to departure.

This includes:

1: All necessary permits and administrative requirements

2: Transportation from Kathmandu to Base Camp

3: Accommodation and meals throughout the journey

4: Expert guides and support staff, including porters

5: Supplementary oxygen as needed for higher camps

6: Complete climbing logistics up to the summit

With Full Board Service, climbers can focus entirely on the ascent while our team manages every detail to ensure safety, comfort, and efficiency.

Base Camp Service

For climbers who prefer to manage their summit attempt independently, our Base Camp Service provides comprehensive support up to Annapurna I  Base Camp.

This package includes:

1: Required permits and administrative support

2: Transportation from Kathmandu to Base Camp

3: Accommodation and meals at Base Camp

4: Access to fully equipped base camp facilities

Base Camp Service is ideal for experienced climbers who wish to handle higher-altitude climbs on their own while benefiting from professional support at the starting point.

Why Choose Adventure Fourteen Summit?

Climbing Annapurna I (8,091m)

Climbing Annapurna I is more than a mountaineering challenge—it’s a test of courage, stamina, and a chance to witness some of the most awe-inspiring landscapes on Earth. Adventure Fourteen Summit transforms this incredible journey into a safe, well-supported, and unforgettable adventure.

1: Master Essential Mountaineering Skills

Our experienced guides provide hands-on training, helping you strengthen your technical climbing abilities and confidence on high-altitude terrain.

2: Experience High-Altitude Acclimatisation

Annapurna demands careful acclimatisation. Our expeditions are structured to gradually adapt you to extreme altitudes, minimising risk while maximising your performance.

3: Prepare for Future 8,000m Peaks

Climbing Annapurna with us is excellent preparation for other Himalayan giants like Everest, K2, or Dhaulagiri, building the endurance and skills needed for future summits.

With Adventure Fourteen Summit, you benefit from professional guidance, meticulous safety planning, and full logistical support—all at a competitive price. Whether your goal is to reach the summit or support from Base Camp, we ensure a fulfilling, safe, and unforgettable expedition