ANNAPURNA IV (7525M)

Annapurna IV (7,525 m / 24,688 ft) stands proudly in the heart of the Annapurna Himal, positioned between Annapurna II and Annapurna III. With its elegant pyramid silhouette and balanced technical challenges, it has become a top choice for mountaineers looking to progress from 6,000m peaks to more demanding Himalayan climbs. The mountain rewards climbers with sweeping panoramas of the Annapurna Massif, the Dhaulagiri Range, the Manaslu region, and the distant Tibetan Plateau.

The classic ascent follows the Northwest Ridge, a route that blends snow climbing, icy slopes, and exposed high-altitude ridges. Our Annapurna IV expedition starts with a scenic drive from Kathmandu to Besisahar, the classic entry point to the Annapurna region. With improved roads, we now continue driving all the way to Humde, saving several days of trekking and reaching the high valley quickly and comfortably.

After arriving in Humde, we take a full acclimatisation day to adjust to the altitude. The next morning, well-rested and ready, we move toward Annapurna IV Base Camp, following the traditional approach with stunning views of Annapurna II, III, IV, and the surrounding Himalayan giants.

Historic First Ascent

Annapurna IV was first climbed in 1955 by a German team led by Heinz Steinmetz, accompanied by Jürgen Wellenkamp and Harald Biller. Their ascent via the Northwest Ridge established the standard route still used today. This early expedition was remarkable for its lightweight, Alpine-style strategy, relying on minimal fixed ropes—an advanced and bold approach for that era.

Expedition Timeline

Spring Season

Late April – Early May:

Arrival & Preparation: Climbers arrive in Kathmandu, complete permit formalities, attend a detailed briefing, and travel toward the Annapurna region via Besisahar and Dharapani. The journey continues on foot toward Annapurna IV Base Camp.

Early – Mid-May: Base Camp Setup:

The team establishes Base Camp and begins structured acclimatisation. Gradual climbs to higher camps help the body adapt to altitude.

Mid – Late May: Rotation & Climb:

Multiple rotations between Base Camp and the high camps allow climbers to acclimatise fully. Equipment and supplies are staged in preparation for the summit attempt.

Late May: Summit Push:

A stable weather window in late May offers the best opportunity for the summit. Climbers move from the high camps toward the peak, aiming for a safe and successful ascent.

Early June: Descent & Return:

After the summit, the team descends to Base Camp and returns to Kathmandu, marking the conclusion of the expedition.

Expedition Timeline

Autumn Season

Late September – Early October:

Arrival & Preparation: The expedition begins in Kathmandu with permit completion, logistical organisation, and a route briefing. The team then travels to Besisahar, Dharapani, and onward to Base Camp.

Early – Mid-October: Base Camp Setup:

Base Camp is fully established. Sherpa guides begin ferrying loads to higher camps and start fixing tents and essential gear.

Mid – Late October: Rotation & Climb:

This phase focuses on acclimatisation climbs between Base Camp and the higher camps. The team finalises planning for summit day.

Late October: Summit Push:

Climbers aim for the summit during the stable late-October weather window—typically the most reliable period of the autumn season.

Early November: Descent & Return:

Following the summit attempt, the team descends to Base Camp and travels back to Kathmandu, completing the journey.

Difficulty Level

Annapurna IV is regarded as a moderate challenge for a 7,000m peak, making it ideal for climbers stepping up from 6,000m summits. The route involves:

A: Steep, sustained snow climbs

B: Exposed ridge navigation

C: Glacier travel with crevasse hazards

D: High-altitude endurance and acclimatisation

E: Experience on at least one or two 6,000m peaks is recommended before attempting Annapurna IV.

Guide-to-Client Ratio

Base Camp to Summit

A: 1 – One Guide for One Climber: Safest option, ideal for first-time 7,000m climbers.

B: 1:2 – One Guide for Two Climbers: Suitable only for well-acclimatised, experienced partners climbing as a team.

Recommended Oxygen Strategy

1 Emergency oxygen bottle (4L) per climber for the full expedition.
This emergency oxygen is reserved for high camps and summit push, adding an extra layer of safety against altitude-related issues.

Annapurna IV Expedition 

Camp Elevations & Route Overview

Annapurna IV (7,525m) is a magnificent peak of the Annapurna Range, most commonly climbed via the North Face and Northwest Ridge. The route is designed around a progressive camp system that supports acclimatisation, safety, and efficient movement on mixed snow, rock, and glaciated terrain.

Camp Setup for Annapurna IV

1: Base Camp – 4,800m

Set on a wide moraine with panoramic views of the Annapurna massif, Base Camp acts as the heart of the expedition. Here, climbers prepare their equipment, acclimate to altitude, and conduct daily rotations before moving to higher elevations.

2: Camp I – 5,300m

A steady ascent from Base Camp leads across glacier fields and gentle snow slopes. Though not overly technical, the terrain requires rope systems for crevasse protection. Camp I provides an ideal acclimatisation platform.

3: Camp II – 6,100m

Situated above steep ice and mixed rock sections, Camp II stands on a compact ridge. Strong winds are common, and the limited tent space demands careful positioning and secure anchoring. This camp marks the beginning of more technical climbing.

4: Camp III – 6,900m

This high camp lies on the upper Northwest Ridge. The climb from Camp II involves steep ice, fixed rope sections, and sustained effort. Camp III is the starting point for the summit push and offers direct access to the upper ridge.

5: Summit – 7,525m

Summit day is demanding—long, steep, and fully exposed. Climbers navigate sustained snow and ice slopes, often in frigid wind conditions. A clear, stable weather window is essential for a safe and successful summit bid.

Our Expedition Services

Adventure Fourteen Summit provides two service packages to suit different climbing preferences: Full Board Service, which includes support from Base Camp to the summit, and Base Camp Service, offering assistance up to Base Camp only.

Full Board Service

A complete expedition package covering every detail from arrival to departure:

1: Climbing permit & government paperwork

2: All transportation

3: Accommodation & meals

4: Climbing Sherpa guides and Porters

5: Supplementary oxygen (if required)

6: High-altitude tents, ropes, logistics, and summit support

Base Camp Service

Designed for experienced climbers who prefer to manage their own climb above Base Camp. Includes:

1: Climbing permit & government paperwork

2: Transportation

3: Accommodation & meals during the approach

4: Base Camp facilities: tents, kitchen, dining, communications, support staff

Why Climb Annapurna IV?

Annapurna IV is widely regarded as one of the best training peaks for aspiring 8,000-meter summiteers, including Everest, Manaslu, and Dhaulagiri. Its blend of moderate technical difficulty, high elevation, and logical camp progression makes it the ideal mountain for climbers aiming to build serious Himalayan experience.

At Adventure Fourteen Summit

we deliver 

1. Professional climbing Sherpa teams

2: Reliable logistics and safety systems

3: Well-managed Base Camp

4: Exceptional service at a competitive price

Whether you are preparing for your first 8,000m expedition or looking to push your mountaineering skills to the next level, Annapurna IV offers the perfect challenge—rewarding, scenic, and truly unforgettable.